Felchlin Sensory Panel: A passion for quality

To meet its high-quality standards, Felchlin established in 1991 an in-house sensory panel and has continuously evolved and developed it to meet ever-higher benchmarks. The 28 Felchlin sensory experts come from various departments and undergo ongoing training and assessment. Marina Merz, the panel leader, provides us with an in-depth insight:

What are the responsibilities of the sensory panel?
The panel is responsible for the sensory evaluation of cacao beans and Grand Cru couvertures. Other areas include the creation of aroma profiles, comparative, and preference testing, as well as customer support. The panel is constantly involved when a comprehensive sensory impression of a product is required.

How do you personally define outstanding sensory quality in a couverture, and which criteria are key for you?
For me, it is the interplay of sensory impressions I experience when tasting a couverture. For my part, I would say: the complexity and depth of aromas, its fineness and melt, with a long-lasting finish.
Specific preferences for traits or attributes such as fruitiness, acidity, floral or spicy notes are very individual and will vary from person to person.

What role does the origin of the cacao beans play in the sensory profile, and how well can you distinguish regional differences?
The origin and genetic background, climate, and soil composition all play a crucial role in the aroma profile. Certain flavours can be associated with specific countries, though even within the same region, profiles can vary considerably. Other significant and relevant factors include cultivation techniques, harvest timing, deliberate and controlled fermentation, and gentle drying methods. Many elements interact and influence the quality of the cacao bean.
Cacao from Madagascar often features (a citrus like) acidity. Ecuador, the home of Nacional cacao, brings out spicy, floral notes. Cacao from Venezuela often reminds me of wonderful brown notes like wood and molasses, but also floral and herbal notes such as orange blossom, tobacco, and black tea.

What does a typical sensory test look like for you?
We cast the couverture into small chocolate discs that are ideal in their form and texture for tasting purposes. The tests are conducted in two dedicated sensory rooms to ensure a tranquil environment. The results are documented and stored. It is important that the tests are prepared as impartially and consistently as possible to avoid influencing the testers.

How do you ensure that the sensory panel remains "calibrated" over time and delivers consistent results?
We conduct regular sensory and cacao bean trainings for the panel. Panellists can also train their palate and sense of smell independently on a regular basis. We have even developed our own Felchlin aroma language and use the Felchlin aroma wheel, which is based on many years of experience. However, considering that cacao contains over 500 aroma compounds, our aroma wheel is not exhaustive and therefore always leaves room for individual perception.

Are there specific aromas or textures that are typical for Felchlin couvertures — a kind of sensory fingerprint?
Yes — the fineness, with a perfect melt, and a wide variety of aromas, as well as our unmistakable milk couvertures, thanks to the freshness of the cacao profile and the milk used.

How do you select members for the sensory panel, and what skills or qualifications are most important to you?
We ensure that the panel includes testers from as many different departments of the company as possible. Everyone must have a well-developed sensory sense, which they must routinely demonstrate to qualify for the panel. Tasting techniques can be taught, but motivation and interest, together with an objective and neutral mindset, and sufficient time for meaningful results are essential. Learning new aromas takes patience and daily practice!